Best Drill Bits Sharpener in Comparison.
Drill Bits Sharpener Reviews & Buyer Guide.
If you now want to sharpen dull metal drills again, you will find what you are looking for in our table: Drill sharpeners are so easy to use that you don’t need to take a test or training for this. Some models are no harder to operate than a pencil sharpener.
If you need particularly precise drills, the first thing you should look for now in our table. It’s also important to pay attention to the drill diameters you’re grinding, because not every grinding station can handle all diameters. If you don’t want to drill into any special materials, you’ll be happy with 118° drill bits. On the other hand, we recommend models that at least also produce 135° angles: This way you remain flexible.
Drill Grinding Equipment Buying Guide:
How to choose the right product from the drill grinders test or comparison above.
- Drill grinders sharpen your dull metal drill bits. Using safely guided jigs, the devices help you guide the drill bit to the grinding plate at the right angle.
- Drill grinders are primarily designed for metal drills only. The tips of wood drills or stone drills would become dull in these machines.
- High precision is what makes the quality of drill sharpening machines. But a wide range of possible drill diameters as well as tip angles also make potential drill sharpener test winners.
More than 100 million people in the United States own a drill press. Those who frequently drill into metal with twist drills have a high rate of drill wear. Old professionals probably still learned how to grind their metal drills themselves on the bench grinder. However, this requires a lot of knowledge and skilled hands.
With a drill sharpener, even budding DIYers can sharpen drills themselves. Good models don’t have to be expensive; there are even inexpensive drill sharpeners for under 100 euros. Those who demand precision, however, will have to invest more money.
Find out why a wide range of diameters makes the best drill grinder in our buying guide. Among other things, we also reveal why you cannot grind wood drills with the devices in our drill grinder comparison 2021.
If you want to buy a drill grinder and expect perfect results right away, you can quickly be disappointed. Even with good drill grinders, it takes a little practice before you can exploit the full perfection of the device.
Officially, no types of drill sharpening machines are defined, but two different designs can be found in the trade. For example, there are drill sharpening machines, in which the user inserts the drill bits into the sharpening station with a special chuck.
By carefully adjusting the drill in the chuck, very precise sharpening is possible here. Professional drill sharpeners are also designed in this way. The do-it-yourself guides the chuck and the drill bit into the grinder with slight rotary movements.
If inaccuracies occur here, they can be subsequently improved with this type of drill grinder. Since these devices are somewhat larger than those presented below, they could be called a “drill sharpening station” (In the rest of the guide, however, this is not distinguished).
In the small category of drill sharpeners, the drill bit is inserted into the sharpener without a chuck. The operation is similar to that of an electric pencil sharpener. However, these types of devices rarely achieve high-quality results and are only suitable for drills used for rough drilling.
Readjustments are not possible here. Therefore, the small sharpeners do not win any drill sharpener test.
Is there a large selection of diameters and angles?
Diameter of your own drill bits must be available
The most common drill diameters are between 3 and 13 mm; perfectly adequate for the do-it-yourselfer. But professional drill grinders must also be able to hold narrow diameters (e.g., smaller than 3 or 2 mm), because craftsmen in particular stress the life of their drill bits of all sizes every day.
Very thick drills are more likely to be ground by do-it-yourselfers than by professionals (usually 10 to 13 mm), because they usually use pilot drills for wide holes. This way, large diameters are spared by professionals (which is why industrial drill grinders tend to have smaller sizes).
Drill grinder diameters:
- thin diameters for professionals (smaller than 3 mm)
- thick diameters for do-it-yourselfers (13 mm and thicker)
- the more choice, the better
At least two different angles: 118° & 135°.
Standard drill tips usually have an angle of 118°, so all drill grinders also have at least this angle preset.
But especially if metal is worked with so often that you regularly sharpen the twist drills, then the likelihood that you will also machine very hard metals increases.
Hard types of metal, such as carbide, can be cut more cleanly if the drill has a wide point. 135° angles are optimal for hard materials.
For this reason, it is recommended to buy a drill grinder that can grind at least both angles: 118° AND 135°. If the grinder can grind other angles, you are also equipped for special cases.
If you are looking for a sharpening station for your small workshop to be able to grind drills on a regular basis, then models with a wide range that lies between these angles and does not just present you with an “either or” situation are worthwhile.
If you often cut soft metals such as aluminum or sheet metal, then you need drills with rather narrow drill tips: So, for example, between 90° and 120°. If, on the other hand, your drills work on carbide and alloyed types of steel, angles between 120° and 140° are recommended.
Drill bit tip angles:
- narrow angles for soft metals (around 118°)
- wide angles for hard metals (around 135°)
- the wider the bandwidth, the better
Is a cross grinder suitable for particularly high quality drills?
Twist drill grinders are capable of making even as-new drills even better: With so-called cross grinding, the drills receive additional cutting lips and the tip becomes narrower. Due to this even more pointed drill tip, the drill centers itself while turning. This makes pre-coring of the drill site unnecessary, as the drill now punctures its working area itself and immediately cuts into the material.
Cross sharpening is also called pointing out, because the drill tip, which was previously more of a slight straight line, is now ground to a real point. Drills that are not sharpened out can, if necessary, slip around on the material before they penetrate without pre-sharpening the drill site. This is always a risk for imprecise drilling.
Advantages and disadvantages of cross sharpening:
- Drills center themselves
- Drilling becomes more precise
- Drilling time becomes shorter
- Mis-sharpening makes the drill unusable
Medium speed is optimal, high wattage is more important!
If you work with wood a lot, you’re used to the fact that high speeds are always good. When working with metal, however, high speeds should be used with caution: If the grinding wheel is very fast, it will also heat up the workpiece being ground faster. With metal, high temperatures will damage the alloy.
Too low speeds are not helpful either, however, because otherwise the grinding process takes a very long time. In some circumstances, grinding would take 20 minutes instead of 2, for example.
In many drill grinder tests, RPMs are often not addressed because speeds say less about the quality of the machine and offer more clues about handling:
- High speeds are more suitable for professionals (higher than 7,000 rpm).
- Low speeds are optimal for beginners (lower than 2,000 rpm)
- Medium speeds are helpful for both users (3,000 to 6,000 rpm)
At high speeds, the amateur can quickly leave the drill bit on the grinding wheel too long and the drill bit will anneal. This would damage the alloy in HSS drills, for example, and cause the drill to become brittle. Low speeds, on the other hand, cause frustration among professionals, as sharpening processes take a very long time this way.
Wattage and actual motor power
High wattage is often equated with wattage or a powerful motor. This makes only limited sense: powerful motors often have a high wattage consumption, but this need not always be the case. Especially if the motor is efficiently built, it can do a lot with only a little power.
However, if no drill sharpener test reveals anything about the power of the motor, the wattage numbers are the only remaining indications of potentially powerful electric machines.
For metal grinding, you definitely need a powerful motor, otherwise the grinding wheel will become extremely slow or even stop while working. If drills with a carbide tip are to be ground, you definitely need a powerful motor.
Motors with about 90 watts of power consumption are usable for average cheap drills. For occasional sharpening in between, they are usually also a cheap alternative
However, if harder drills are to be sharpened or even resharpened from 118° to 135° angles, then you need at least 100 watts. Grinders with more than 800 watts are ideal for carbide drill tips.
How do I grind wood drill bits?
Drill grinders are only suitable for metal drills. As a rule, wood drills should not need to be ground. Laymen are advised to buy new ones when the tip is dull. The effort to sharpen the complicated structure would simply be too high:
You would need a special grinding stand with a swivel lock for the wood drill. In addition, you would have to grind the outer cutting edges and the center point with the utmost precision to the millimeter in many different operations.
On the other hand, to sharpen snake drills, for example, a hand file rather than a power tool is recommended.
How does a drill sharpener work?
A drill sharpener contains a grinding machine. This either drives a grinding wheel or a so-called grinding ring. To sharpen conventional metal twist drills, they simply have to be fed to the grinding machine at a certain angle on two sides.
Drill sharpening machines have a prefabricated opening for this purpose, which guides the drill at the correct angle. Professional craftsmen do this more or less freely on a “naked” grinding wheel (i.e. without a prefabricated drill guide). However, there is always the risk that the drill will be ground and thus become unusable.
Drill sharpening stations enable non-professionals to sharpen drills themselves. However, even with sharpening stations that forcibly process the drill, practice is required. When sharpening drills for the first time, it is better to use unimportant old drills to get a feel for them.
Which drill sharpener is the best?
If you are unsure: Choose a drill sharpener that grinds at least 118° and 135° angles.
Professional brands of drill grinders are too expensive for do-it-yourselfers and only make sense if your focus is metalworking. So if you drill a lot of sheet metal and steel in your hobby basement or small workshop, a high-performance machine may really make sense.
Manufacturers such as Optimum or Bernardo produce drill sharpening machines in the high-priced range, whose inexpensive variants are already suitable for small workshops and not just industry.
For the average do-it-yourselfer, on the other hand, machines that handle standard sizes are recommended. Well-known tool manufacturers such as Güde, Scheppach, Holzmann and Proxxon come into question here. Their machines are not always very versatile, but they are tailored to standard sizes and are therefore usually very affordable. Many models cost less than 100 euros.
Drill Doctor creates an interesting intermediate level with its drill grinder series: The machines are somewhat more expensive than average, but promise more flexibility and precision. So far, various drill sharpener tests have shown that the models get better with each generation.
The extremely cheap drill sharpeners, which resemble electric pencil sharpeners, are usually very inaccurate. Better leave them alone.
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